Cordillera Blanca — Technical

Alpamayo
Climbing

5,947m
Summit altitude
AD+
Technical grade
7 days
6 nights
May–Aug
Best season

The climbing route

Five stages,
one summit

Declared in 1966 by Alpinismo magazine as "the most beautiful mountain in the world" — a technical climb via the southwest face (Ferrari route) that requires prior ice experience. Tap a stage to see it on the profile.

Ascent profile STAGE 01
1 Llamacorral 2 Base Camp 3 Camp Morrena 4 Camp 1 5 Summit
01
Stage 1 — Llamacorral

Transfer and Llamacorral

Huaraz → Cashapampa → Llamacorral

3,760m
Altitude

Private bus transfer through the Callejón de Huaylas (Carhuaz, Yungay, Caraz) to Cashapampa, where the muleteer waits with the pack animals, followed by a several-hour walk to the first campsite at Llamacorral.

Trekking
02
Stage 2 — Arhuaycocha Base Camp

To Arhuaycocha Base Camp

Llamacorral → Arhuaycocha Base Camp

4,300m
Altitude

Climb up the valley past the turquoise lagoons of Ichiccocha and Jatuncocha, with lunch in Quisuar, up to base camp — with the first close views of Alpamayo.

Glacial lagoons
03
Stage 3 — Camp Morrena

Camp Morrena

Base Camp → Camp Morrena

500m
Elevation gain
4,800m
Altitude
~3h
Duration

Climb up a rocky moraine trail, with views of Artesonraju, Paria and Pucajirca from the campsite.

Rocky moraine
04
Stage 4 — Camp 1

Camp 1 on the glacier

Camp Morrena → Camp 1

750m
Elevation gain
5,550m
Altitude
~4.5h
Duration

Entry onto the glacier with full technical gear — crampons, harness and rope — up to Camp 1, the last campsite before summit day.

Glacier
05
Stage 5 — Alpamayo Summit

Summit day — Ferrari route

Camp 1 → Alpamayo Summit (5,947m) → Camp 1

397m
Elevation gain
~9h
Duration

Departure at 2 or 3am with headlamps — an hour on snow to the base of the wall (Ferrari route, about 75° incline), then 2 to 3 hours of ice climbing to the summit. The descent to Camp 1 is done by rappel with the guide's help.

IceAD+

Descent: two days back — from Camp 1 to Base Camp (~3h) on day 6, and from Base Camp to Cashapampa and Huaraz (walk and transfer) on day 7.

Before you book

What's included
in your climb

Everything you need to climb worry-free — personal gear is on you.

Included

  • Private transport Huaraz ⇄ Cashapampa / Vaquería
  • Certified mountain guide (AGMP–UIAGM), speaks English
  • Certified cook
  • Muleteer and pack animals
  • Porters
  • 5 meals a day (breakfast, snack, lunch, tea time, dinner)
  • 4-season sleeping tent (3-person, used for 2)
  • Special sleeping pad
  • Kitchen tent, dining tent and bathroom tent (base camp)
  • Group climbing gear (crampons, harness, ice axe, rope, helmet)
  • Full kitchen and dining equipment
  • Hot water for washing and boiled water for your bottle every day
  • First-aid kit
  • Dinner and a typical drink on the last day
  • Emergency communication equipment: Garmin GPS and satellite phone

Not included

  • Travel and health accident insurance
  • Huascarán National Park entrance fee (S/150 per person)
  • Emergency horse (trekking sections)
  • Baggage and trip cancellation insurance
  • First breakfast (day 1 in Huaraz) and meals/drinks not mentioned
  • Personal expenses
  • Personal climbing gear — sleeping bag, headlamp (rental available)
  • Snow goggles, appropriate clothing, personal medication
  • Tips

What to bring

  • Day pack + sturdy waterproof duffel bag
  • Layered clothing: long-sleeve shirts, t-shirts, fleece or wool, lightweight pants
  • Thermal underwear (regular and long)
  • Mid-weight parka (down or synthetic)
  • Warm hat, light hat, gloves (regular and lightweight)
  • Rain poncho
  • Trekking boots
  • Sleeping bag (-10° to 0°C)
  • Water bottle, sunglasses, sunscreen, lip balm
  • Headlamp with spare batteries, towel
  • Technical gear: 1 ice axe, 2 locking carabiners, 1 daisy chain, 1 ATC belay device, 2 prusik cords, harness, technical gloves