Cordillera Blanca — Roof of Peru

Huascarán

6,768m
Summit altitude
AD
Technical grade
6 days
5 nights
Jun–Aug
Best season

The climbing route

Five stages,
one summit

Huascarán, at 6,768m, is Peru's highest tropical mountain and the second-highest peak in South America after Aconcagua (6,962m) — surrounded by peaks over 5,000m and 6,000m in the Cordillera Blanca. A demanding climb via the normal route up to the Garganta, with panoramic views of the entire range. Tap a stage to see it on the profile.

Ascent profile STAGE 01
1 Base Camp 2 Camp Morrena 3 High Camp 4 High Camp 2 5 Summit
01
Stage 1 — Huascarán Base Camp

Transfer and Base Camp

Huaraz (3,100m) → Mancos → Musho (3,005m) → Base Camp

4,200m
Altitude
2h + 4h
Car + walk

Departure from Huaraz at 7am toward the north of the Callejón de Huaylas to Mancos (2,528m), then a dirt road to Musho, where the muleteer waits with the pack animals carrying the gear up to base camp, at the foot of the massif. Overnight at Base Camp.

Trekking
02
Stage 2 — Huascarán Camp Morrena

To Camp Morrena

Base Camp → Camp Morrena

650m
Elevation gain
4,850m
Altitude
~3h
Duration

Breakfast at 8am and gear preparation, then a walk through a rocky section up to the moraine, where lunch is served. A stunning sunset in the evening. Overnight at Camp Morrena.

Rocky moraine
03
Stage 3 — Huascarán High Camp

To High Camp

Camp Morrena → High Camp

500m
Elevation gain
5,350m
Altitude
~5h
Duration

After breakfast, progress along a rocky trail to the edge of the glacier, then a crossing to High Camp. Overnight right on the glacier.

Glacier
04
Stage 4 — Huascarán Second High Camp

To the Second High Camp

High Camp → Second High Camp

660m
Elevation gain
6,010m
Altitude
~4h
Duration

Climb toward the saddle between a pair of peaks, passing through a zone with some avalanche risk. In the afternoon, one of the most impressive sunsets of the entire Cordillera Blanca. Overnight at the Second High Camp.

Avalanche risk
05
Stage 5 — Huascarán South Summit

Summit day

Second High Camp → South Summit (6,768m) → Camp Morrena

758m
Elevation gain
~16h
Ascent and descent

Very early breakfast, around midnight, and departure through zigzags with steep sections on ice. After about 7 hours of climbing, the South Summit (6,768m) is reached, with stunning views of the entire Cordillera Blanca. The return follows the same route, with rappels on the difficult sections, continuing the descent to Camp Morrena for the last night of camping.

IceAD

Descent — Day 6: Camp Morrena → Musho (3,050m) → Huaraz, gear pickup with the muleteer and private transfer back (~5h of descent).

Before you book

What's included
in your climb

Everything you need to climb the roof of Peru worry-free — personal gear is on you.

Included

  • Private transport Huaraz ⇄ Musho
  • Certified mountain guide (AGMP–UIAGM), speaks English
  • Certified cook
  • Muleteer and pack animals
  • Porters
  • 5 meals a day (breakfast, snack, lunch, tea time, dinner)
  • 4-season sleeping tent (3-person, used for 2)
  • Special sleeping pad
  • Kitchen tent, dining tent and bathroom tent (base camp)
  • Group climbing gear (crampons, harness, ice axe, rope, helmet)
  • Full kitchen and dining equipment
  • Hot water for washing and boiled water for your bottle every day
  • First-aid kit
  • Dinner and a typical drink on the last day
  • Emergency communication equipment: Garmin GPS and satellite phone

Not included

  • Travel and health accident insurance
  • Huascarán National Park entrance fee (S/150 per person)
  • Emergency horse (trekking sections)
  • Baggage and trip cancellation insurance
  • First breakfast (day 1 in Huaraz) and meals/drinks not mentioned
  • Personal expenses
  • Personal climbing gear — sleeping bag, headlamp (rental available)
  • Snow goggles, appropriate clothing, personal medication
  • Tips

What to bring

  • Day pack + sturdy waterproof duffel bag
  • Layered clothing: long-sleeve shirts, t-shirts, fleece or wool, lightweight pants
  • Thermal underwear (regular and long)
  • Mid-weight parka (down or synthetic)
  • Warm hat, light hat, gloves (regular and lightweight)
  • Rain poncho
  • Trekking boots
  • Sleeping bag (-10° to 0°C)
  • Water bottle, sunglasses, sunscreen, lip balm
  • Headlamp with spare batteries, towel
  • Technical gear: 1 ice axe, 2 locking carabiners, 1 daisy chain, 1 ATC belay device, 2 prusik cords, harness, technical gloves