Cordillera Blanca — Beginner

Vallunaraju

5,686m
Summit altitude
PD+
Technical grade
3 days
2 nights
May–Sep
Best season

The climbing route

Three stages,
one summit

One of the most dominant peaks seen from Huaraz, easy to identify by its two characteristic horns. The normal route via the north ridge is a moderately accessible mountaineering adventure where the approach is the most demanding part — the climb itself is straightforward and rewarding, with plenty of sun and great views. Tap a stage to see it on the profile.

Ascent profile STAGE 01
1 Camp Morrena 2 Glacier Course 3 Summit
01
Stage 1 — Vallunaraju Camp Morrena

Transfer and Camp Morrena

Huaraz → Llaca Valley → Vallunaraju Camp Morrena

4,760m
Altitude
~3h
Walk

Hotel pickup around 8:00am and transfer east of Huaraz to the Llaca valley, the starting point of an approach walk of about 3 hours up to Camp Morrena — with views along the way of the San Juan, Ranrapalca, Ocshapalca and León Dormido peaks. Arrival around 1:00pm for lunch and a climbing gear check before spending the night at 4,760m.

Approach trekking
02
Stage 2 — Mountain course on the glacier

Mountain course on the glacier

Camp Morrena → Vallunaraju Glacier → Camp Morrena

70°–80°
Practice wall
12–15m
Rappel

After breakfast, a short 25-minute climb over rock leads to the glacier, where technical gear is put on — crampons, harness, helmet — to practice rope systems, climbing on a 70° to 80° wall, a 12-to-15-meter rappel, and basic rescue maneuvers. In the afternoon, return to Camp Morrena for a second night at 4,760m.

GlacierTechnical course
03
Stage 3 — Vallunaraju Summit

Summit day

Camp Morrena → Vallunaraju Summit (5,686m) → Huaraz

926m
Elevation gain
~5h
Ascent
~3.5h
Descent to camp

Departure around 2:00am for a walk of about 5 hours to the summit of Vallunaraju (5,686m), with views of Huascarán, Tocllaraju, Copa, Ranrapalca, Ocshapalca and Huantsán. Descent of about three and a half hours back to Camp Morrena, where tents are packed up before continuing on foot to the road — arrival in Huaraz around 4:00–5:00pm for the final celebration.

GlacierPD+

Descent: it happens on summit day itself (day 3) — descent from the summit to Camp Morrena in about 3h30, followed by the walk to the road and the transfer to Huaraz, with no additional descent day.

Before you book

What's included
in your climb

Everything you need to climb worry-free — personal gear is on you.

Included

  • Private transport to/from Huaraz
  • Certified mountain guide (AGMP–UIAGM), speaks English
  • Certified cook
  • Muleteer and pack animals
  • Porters
  • 5 meals a day (breakfast, snack, lunch, tea time, dinner)
  • 4-season sleeping tent (3-person, used for 2)
  • Special sleeping pad
  • Kitchen tent, dining tent and bathroom tent (base camp)
  • Group climbing gear (crampons, harness, ice axe, rope, helmet)
  • Full kitchen and dining equipment
  • Hot water for washing and boiled water for your bottle every day
  • First-aid kit
  • Dinner and a typical drink on the last day
  • Emergency communication equipment: Garmin GPS and satellite phone

Not included

  • Travel and health accident insurance
  • Huascarán National Park entrance fee (S/150 per person)
  • Emergency horse (trekking sections)
  • Baggage and trip cancellation insurance
  • First breakfast (day 1 in Huaraz) and meals/drinks not mentioned
  • Personal expenses
  • Personal climbing gear — sleeping bag, headlamp (rental available)
  • Snow goggles, appropriate clothing, personal medication
  • Tips

What to bring

  • Day pack + sturdy waterproof duffel bag
  • Layered clothing: long-sleeve shirts, t-shirts, fleece or wool, lightweight pants
  • Thermal underwear (regular and long)
  • Mid-weight parka (down or synthetic)
  • Warm hat, light hat, gloves (regular and lightweight)
  • Rain poncho
  • Trekking boots
  • Sleeping bag (-10° to 0°C)
  • Water bottle, sunglasses, sunscreen, lip balm
  • Headlamp with spare batteries, towel
  • Technical gear: 1 ice axe, 2 locking carabiners, 1 daisy chain, 1 ATC belay device, 2 prusik cords, harness, technical gloves