Llanganuco Valley — Cordillera Blanca
The climbing route
In the Llanganuco valley, right next to Pisco but far less known and traveled — a moderately difficult climb with some steep sections, not recommended for first-time climbers, but ideal for experienced climbers or already-trained beginners looking to level up. Includes a full day of mountain course before the summit. Tap a stage to see it on the profile.
Huaraz → Portachuelo → Yanapaccha Camp Morrena
Departure from the hotel and drive along the north side of the Callejón de Huaylas, with stops in Carhuaz (2,650m, famous for its artisanal ice cream) and Yungay — the former town buried by the 1970 Huascarán avalanche, today Nuevo Yungay (2,500m). Climb up to the Llanganuco valley (Huascarán National Park checkpoint) to visit the Chinancocha and Orconcocha lagoons, with lunch along the way. The climb continues to the Portachuelo pass, with views of Huascarán, Chopicalqui, Pisco, the Huandoys and Chacraraju, and 3 more hours to the Yanapaccha Camp Morrena (4,900m), where gear is checked before dinner and the night.
Camp Morrena → Mountain course → Camp Morrena
A full day of mountain course with the guide: rope systems, basic knots and use of technical gear, with practice on the glacier for vertical wall technique and rescue. After lunch and a rest, the group climbs about 200m more to keep practicing ahead of summit day. Return to sleep at the same Camp Morrena.
Camp Morrena → Yanapaccha Summit (5,480m) → Huaraz
Breakfast around 3am and departure at 3:30am — 30 minutes along a rocky path until reaching the snow, then 3 to 4 more hours to the summit, with views of Chacraraju, Pisco, Huascarán, Chopicalqui, Contrahierbas and the Huandoys. Descent of about 3 hours to Camp Morrena for lunch, then down to the Portachuelo bend where transport waits, and return to Huaraz through the same Llanganuco valley and the National Park checkpoint, with estimated arrival around 5pm.
Descent: after the summit, the same day — descent to Camp Morrena (~3h) for lunch, then down to the Portachuelo bend where transport waits and a direct return to Huaraz through the Llanganuco valley, with arrival around 5pm. No additional overnight stay in the mountains.
Before you book
Everything you need to climb worry-free — personal gear is on you.
